This is a flyer we got in the Pelorinho of Salvador, Bahia at a parade for Zumbi Day, Brazil's day of black consciousness, Nov. 20.
To find out more about Zumbi Day and its history, click here.
Forms of
Resistance: A Look at Bahia
By
Reneé
Rinaldi Throughout history, people
who have been oppressed have found ways to subvert and resist their
oppressors. Forms of
Afro-Brazilian resistance can be seen throughout Brazil if you only take
the time to look. Bahia,
being the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, was an interesting place to
look for Afro-Brazilian resistance. Perhaps the most obvious form of resistance is present in the varieties and extent of capoeira one can find in Bahia. Originally, capoeira was a form of slave resistance to Portuguese control. Capoeira was used not only as a tactic to subvert the system of slavery but also as a space within which Blacks could maintain their own culture.
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Lighting a candle for Anastasia
"In memory of a strong and vocal slave woman who for talking back to her master was forced to wear a muzzle."
The portrayal of suffering is prominent in Brazil's churches, but oftentimes, the torment of slavery remains in the periphery. In the cobblestone square of the Pelourinho stands the Igreja Nosso Senhor do Rosário dos Pretos painted in bright porcelain blue. The church was built by blacks for blacks. I stepped into a late afternoon Mass. The congregation clapped and sang to music belting out of an electric organ. A little cat ambled around their feet, gave the corner of the pew a rub, and slipped out the door and through the iron gate. In a courtyard off to the side of the church, I found the shrine of Anastácia Escrava (Anastácia the Slave). The weathered picture painted on tiles showed Anastácia Escrava with her mouth strapped in a muzzle. Small jars of flowers had been set at foot of the picture and small candles burned in her honor. Anastácia, an Angolan princess, was brought to Rio as a slave and became the mistress of her white master. When his wife found out of the affair, she had Anastácia "silenced" with a ceramic disk secured by a leather strap. This form of torture eroded the mouth which led to starvation. Anastácia is sanctified, thought not considered a "saint." In other words, many followers regard her as holy and claim miracles on her behalf, but she has not been canonized by the Catholic church. Nevertheless, Anastácia's attempt to voice her oppression and her martyrdom became an inspiration to other blacks who pay their respects.
Excerpted from an article in the magazine Brazzil, by Kathleen de Azevedo found at the following website:
http://altreligion.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?
Salvador da Bahia: Religion and CelebrationBy
Chirlie Felix I fell in love with Salvador the minute I got here. It was the air of nonchalance; the joy of life. I got a good feeling about the place. Reading about Salvador made me love it even more. But, in fact, something resonates with me whenever I think about his place, especially the religion that meshes so well with the cultural celebration in general. The ability of Salvador to simultaneously have Candomblé and Catholicism; a funeral and a party. Unlike Manaus, where the contrasts were apparent and like the waters, unable to mix, Salvador was quite the opposite.
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Salvador: Black Pride and Tourism By Aracely Ruiz When driving to our hotel in Salvador, Bahia, on November 18th, the first thing that I noticed was the many billboards that read “Cidade Negra,” black City. I thought to myself, they believe that identifying with being black is not a shame, it’s a pride. Sure enough I was right! In Salvador, there were so many things that gave value to black identity and black pride. The places we visited this showed this.
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Bahia: Not a Home Away From HomeJavi
Hairston A Mecca of blackness in a definitive way, Bahia epitomized for me everything that my parents have instilled in me with respect to black pride. I nodded in agreement when a Bahian man told me the rhythm of the drums is inherently in my blood. I ached for the spicy food that satisfied my hunger and the batidas de coco that quenched my thirst. While I did not feel that Bahia was my home away from home, I felt welcome.
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The pictures above and below were taken at a Zumbi Celebration.
The
Real Brazil: Salvador da
Bahia
By
Dapo Akinleye As soon as we touched down and we were in the airport, I kn ew that this city would be different. Just looking around, I was amazed and elated about the many beautiful people (especially women) around us. Prior to arriving in Salvador, we were told by Professor Huggins that previous students on this term abroad had loved the city of Salvador much more than the other visited cities. As I looked around I immediately noticed the color differences in the people. There were many people of African descent.
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What I Love about SalvadorBy
Vanessa Berman Salvador to me is the epitome of my experiences and feelings about Brazil. As soon as I got out of the Salvador airport, I could feel my body relax. I breathed a sigh of relief. Maybe it was the sunny day or the first smiling face I saw, or maybe it was the release of pure exhaustion. From that moment, a good feeling rushed over me and I knew that I would like Salvador. It was one of those feeling that has no basis but pure instinct.
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Our friend and guide, Gregorio.
Salvador: Things Gained and LostBy Lauren Selchick When I first arrived in Salvador, we went to the Pelourinho. It was around 9 pm and I was disturbed at what I saw. I was overwhelmed by the dark, crowded, filthy streets. As we walked down the cobblestone streets, the smell of urine and garbage surrounded me as small, barefoot, Black children tugged on my sleeves begging for food or money. I could not believe the poverty. I had seen this type of poverty in many of the other places we had traveled, but this seemed worse to me. Maybe because it was nighttime and hot, as well as my first impression. In any case, I definitely changed my mind about Salvador over the next five days.
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Pelourinho, Salvador City
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By Marissa Post Of all the places we visited, to me, Bahia was the most tourist-filled. Throughout my stay, I saw many foreigners. To make matters worse, a ship with 600 Americans was docked in Salvador while we were there. This greatly added to the tourist “edge.” It is my belief, and the subject of this paper, that the Salvador’s being a tourist site, completely structures the actions of men toward women. By this I mean that men approach and converse with women in a much different way than I have seen in other Brazilian cities.
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Pelourinho
Lacerda Elevator. It takes you between upper and lower Salvador City.
The Mercado Modelo
A view of Salvador
Salvador Dunes
Boats docked in Salvador.
The view from our hotel.
Honoring Iamanjá
Members of the Umbanda Afro-Brazilian religion in celebrate
Iemanjá, mother of the waters and all Orixás (gods and goddesses), on the
night of December 31. Offerings of flowers and perfume are brought to the
beaches and thrown into the sea. The ritual celebrations, accompanied by
drumming and singing, start at midnight and go on until dawn. In recent
years, it has become commonplace and even fashionable, for people to
dress in Iemanjá's colors - white and blue - and join the celebrants, and tens
of thousands come to the beaches to wish for good things in the new year.
Cigars for Iemanjá in Leblon.
Flowers for Iemanjá in Leblon.
Siren, clay image, Salvador, Bahia
Iemanjá, sirens and Iara, the Indian myth, are sometimes all one in Brazilian
popular mythology, so she may be depicted as a beautiful siren holding a
mirror.
The following web site has some great information about Iemanja.
http://gosouthamerica.about.com/library/weekly/aa121500a.htm
Iemanjá House In Salvador Da Bahia
Salvador: Listening to the BuziosBy
Sara Donahue
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